That all sounds very reasonable.


If the I & T is satisfactory, perhaps you could get the work to fit in around your re-test, or even use it for the same.


Don't forget to paint a yellow stripe up the earthing conductor.


And whilst you are about it, get the DNO to replace the service head lest fire break out. ?

That post meter henely block may be  tempting place to disconnect the tails to the CU without removing the company fuse, not least because it is customer side.


Be aware that some designs of the double pole blocks do not actually hold the brass blocks captive in the plastic, and they can fall out while live. open with care.

example pic here.

God no, well no more than hundreds of the things up and down the land, actually that looks like a good one to me , no dripping tar, no water damage to back board, no bits missing, a clear earth tail that looks official and may actually do something.. The only need to get anything more serious done than the seals removed is if the measured Zs is too high related to the main fuse.

The observation is that we are expected to rush round inspecting and measuring and putting stickers on for retests on a regular basis, and the corresponding DNO risk management in some areas looks like, "call us if it starts to smoke'. There is a bit of a cultural gap.

Can anyone tell me what type of MCB's these are and if there's anything to look out for or be wary of when doing my inspection & testing?

Quite likely to be type II (which is somewhere between a B type and C type in the modern post decimal money ).


Dating from the era before striped earth wires, (pre 1970 ish) almost certainly the circuits were originally laid out for BS3036 (hot wire) fuses so any sort of breaker will be fine, bigger risk will be if the wiring in the house has been repaired from damage or extended in-expertly at any time.


Do not be too shocked if there is no CPC to the light fittings or only some of them - from 1970 that was required in the regs, but  in a pre internet era, it took quite a few years for the new methods to reach everyone.


Perhaps if you are  really unlucky it was built during the brief fad for aluminium wire. (not all silver looking wire is bad, tin plated copper is just fine, but be aware that the all-aluminium stuff , or worse copper coated aluminium,  has a completely different feel and is a pain to work with, as it seems to snap when you do much more than sneeze near it, and connecting to it is tricky )

Thanks guys


the homeowners said the house was built in the early 70's, they do however have loads of class I light fittings.


If there is NO cpc for the lighting circuits, I can't reconnect them to the new cu, especially if they refuse to replace all the class I with class II fittings, so what do you do in that scenario?


But considering they've had new lights fitted previously, especially the loft and 2 small lights at each side of the master bed, I'm guess there IS a lighting cpc present.....

well, either rewire, or add a side-along CPC,  or borrow earth as needed from the socket circuits.

You would not be actually making it any more dangerous if you did nothing and reconnected it, it would just be not to current standard, and with RCBO /RCD it would be better than not.


https://www2.theiet.org/forums/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=205&threadid=51511not all advice is good..


section 10 of this guide considers the options for non earthed lights at some length and is probably more useful generally for this sort of job.