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Replacing ballast in old light fitting - advice from those that know please sought!

Former Community Member
Former Community Member
Hi everyone

Wow, it's been some time since I was here.... it's all changed! I've not been doing a huge amount of electrical work of late, although now. have a conundrum which I can't seem find out the answer to.. so of course I though of you all. Fingers crossed.


I have a client who is VERY attached to an old light fitting. Its a fluorescent. Having replaced both tubes and starters, its still not working (there is power) so I'm thinking to change the ballast. However, all the replacements seem to be HF which don't require starters. Would it work with the starters? Or would I have to rewire the light to by pass them?


No lighting supplier has proved helpful in answering my query but hopefully someone here can help me out.

many thanks

BB



  • Perhaps, but when I've done it, it is because of a desire to repair one unit, rather than to replace a great many or suffer from an line of matching units with an odd one out.

    I have also done a similar thing where it was not a fitting as such but components built into a rather nice cupboard, with no desire to do damage to it.
  • First things first. It is a waste of time and money to replace everything until it works.


    Have you checked continuity of the old ballast with your multimeter? If that is OK have you used the correct starters? If it is two tubes in series you need series starters not standard ones.

  • BrucieBonus:

    I was assuming that I could just cut and join together the wires that go 'into' the starter sockets so bypassing them...and yes good idea to allow extra faffing around/swearing time when the cables are too short!

    Cheers

    BB




    It's very accommodating and aesthetic to retain the look, but what about dollars and sense? Who's paying and who can afford the time? .......... is the bottom line!.


    Jaymack

  • We don't use dollars in this country. Nor do we use cents, but hopefully we have sense.


    The bottom line is the ballast is unlikely to be faulty. Most probably poor connections at the tube ends or wrong starters fitted as they have been changed.


    10 minute job with a multimeter.
  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    Wow, I go away for 5 mins and there's a flurry (!) of responses.


    The client wants to keep the light (its part of a bathroom cupboard) and who am I to say he can't and keep it out of landfill. He's paying after all.

    I learnt my lesson long ago when I took down a hideous light fitting for a client and asked if I should put it out by the bins.... no she said, that's the one you're putting in the living room. Oops, that was me told and I now keep my opinions to myself


    The tubes and starters were all correct, so I'm pretty sure it's the ballast... they are cheap,  so I reckon it's worth going with one just in case.


    Thanks again for all your help - it's nice to pop my head back after all this time and find that people are as helpful as ever


    have a fun weekend

    BB

  • Yes, but you can at least check the ballast for continuity first. Takes less than 10 seconds.

  • I was assuming that I could just cut and join together the wires that go 'into' the starter sockets so bypassing them



    Just to be clear - in the old arrangement the starter is usually in series with the two tube end filaments - in the new one all four tube connections need to go back to the new HF  "ballast"(*) - so it's not just a case of shorting out the connections to the starters and replacing the old wound ballast with the new one. Chances are you'll need some extra wire.


    (*) for a twin tube arrangement usually two tube ends share one circuit, so you have 6 wires back to the ballast rather than 8.


      - Andy.
  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member
    Hello everyone and a very belated update on this topic.


    The answer was....be patient! 


    I rewired a very old and dodgy junction box in the loft above this light and lo and behold when I emerged covered in 100+ year old dust and switched back on, the light was on!! I was getting 240V before, but I think both the client and I didn't wait long enough in between switching the bloody thing on and switching it off, thinking 'its not working'


    Everyone happy. 


    Thanks for your answers though, they were really helpful for future reference

    BB


  • Ah yes, very old fittings can take a heck of a long time to fire up!  Thanks for the update
  • We used to have to turn on the TV set 5 to 10 minutes before watching Coronation street!