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Formulas to calculate the required power output of a radiator for a room of a specific size. Do they exist?

Are there any recognised formulas to calculate the required power output of a radiator for a room of a specific size that also takes into account variables such as extra height, large areas of glass, insulation of walls etc? Good quality formulas devised by people who know about thermodynamics as opposed to plumber's rules of thumb passed down from the 1950s.


Numerous online radiator power outlet calculators exist but the formula behind them is not disclosed and the results for the same input variables vary from website to website.
  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member in reply to gkenyon
    Mark, I'm also looking for a reliable calculator which can be used to calculate the required power and heat transfer rate.
  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member in reply to gkenyon
    Mark, I'm also looking for a reliable calculator which can be used to calculate the required power and heat transfer rate.
  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member in reply to gkenyon
    Mark, I'm also looking for a reliable calculator which can be used to calculate the required power and heat transfer rate.
  • Former Community Member
    0 Former Community Member in reply to gkenyon
    Mark, I'm also looking for a reliable calculator which can be used to calculate the required power and heat transfer rate.
  • I also add the question - are radiators supposed to have a difference in temperature of 10 degrees C between the inlet valve and the outlet valve?
  • Hi Arran I don't mind giving you an excel calc sheet I've produced but you'd need to know the approx. room dimensions, internal design temp, external temps and U-Values. This will give an indicative emitter size, I'm an electrical engineer so you'd need to take it with some margin of error.
  • I'm not interested in software. I'm interested in formulas with a solid physics backing.


    HVAC seems to be an industry with only so so knowledge of physics and plenty of rules of thumb handed down over the generations. Mention the Stefan-Boltzmann law or Newton's law of cooling to somebody who has been in the central heating trade for years and the chances are you will get a puzzled look. It's notable that the central heating trade stubbornly sticks with BTU/h (more often than not erroneously quoted as just BTU) but not all central heating installers know the definition of a BTU or that it is convertible into watts, and vice versa.
  • Hi Arran



    I'm not HVAC, but I was responsible for the training of "Mechanical" Building Services Engineers, for what was arguably the UK's leading major contractor in the field and historically a pioneer and leader of the discipline. I'm not a member of CIBSE either, but as The former "Institution of Heating and Ventilating Engineers", they would be interested. 



    Engineers in training carried out manual heat loss calculations and radiator sizing during the ONC (first year) element, but aslo got a student license for "FACET". I think that this is the successor? https://www.iesve.com/software/ve-for-engineers .  I also seem to recall that "Building Physics" was a key component of CEng Accredited (which ours wasn't) MEng & MSc courses, so their material is out there. I get the impression that errors in the software packages used by design consultants and major contractors have been mostly ironed out? 



    Because material is 1950s, or even Victorian for that matter doesn't necessarily make them wrong. Particularly during the post-war period the National College of Heating Ventilating Refrigeration and Fan Engineering, now part of South Bank University carried out much research.  There are also BRE , BSRIA & ASHRAE in the US. 



    "Rules of thumb" are often "near enough" for everyday purposes, although it  might be of academic interest to evaluate them against an analysis from first principles. I would have a speculative punt with a pint on it, that the the best Victorian efforts were within 10% of today? http://www.hevac-heritage.org/



    The issue here might be expecting an academic answer from a practically trained person. They are operating at different ends of the spectrum. Many smaller Heating Engineers are self-employed plumbers who have learned by experience, perhaps with some formal learning to Technician standard. More sophisticated approaches can probably only be justified on large multi-million pound jobs. I know that it irritates many of a more academic persuasion that they are even allowed to call themselves "Engineers", but they got there first.   



  • Roy Bowdler:



    I would have a speculative punt with a pint on it, that the the best Victorian efforts were within 10% of today? http://www.hevac-heritage.org/




    I can believe that because they built things properly back then! The problem is when faced with modernising a 1930s semi that had central heating installed around 1975 with an obsolete back boiler behind a gas fire from the same year and old fashioned single panel radiators. The house could have been upgraded over the years that improves energy efficiency - such as double glazing or thicker loft insulation - and the radiators could have been specified with a low power output as not to overload the boiler or even a suboptimal power output for the room to start with. Chances are that the radiators are in imperial or obsolete metric sizes so new radiators are unavailable in exactly the same dimensions. The replacements might also be double panel or a decorative variety. Therefore trying to match the power output or the physical size of the replacement radiators with the existing radiators is not always a sensible strategy. A replacement boiler can have a higher power output than the existing boiler therefore enabling replacement radiators to also have a higher power output. Older installations generally do not use TRVs so radiators were commonly selected with power outputs assuming only an averagely cold day in order to save energy but were unable to provide enough heat during a big freeze up. The modern practice is to be generous with the power output and turn down the heat with a TRV when full heat is not required. It's quite common for TRVs retrofitted to older installations to be on full power almost all of the time simply because the radiator doesn't provide sufficient heat to enable the TRV to operate on a lower setting.  




    The issue here might be expecting an academic answer from a practically trained person. They are operating at different ends of the spectrum. Many smaller Heating Engineers are self-employed plumbers who have learned by experience, perhaps with some formal learning to Technician standard. More sophisticated approaches can probably only be justified on large multi-million pound jobs. I know that it irritates many of a more academic persuasion that they are even allowed to call themselves "Engineers", but they got there first.   




    Perhaps if there was better information and better formulas that were widely disseminated then self-employed plumbers can use them to create better heating installations that are sufficiently warm and energy efficient at the same time. Modern day plumbers use websites and apps to compute all sorts of things but the output is only as good as the input data and whatever formula is used.


    Even room temperature recommendations haven't kept up with the times. Bedrooms are specified to have a lower temperature than living rooms. The figures might be fine if bedrooms are just for sleeping or occasional use but if kids use them for study rooms, video games rooms, and entertaining friends for hours on end during cold winter days then really they should be as warm as a living room, or else they will plug in fan heaters and the electricity bill will skyrocket!



     

  • I'm sure that, given a bit of time, a physicist could give you an near-exact formula to calculate the size of radiator you would need to maintain the temperature of a given room.


    The trouble is, it would have many variables that you don't have the exact values for.  Plugging in wild guesses would give you a result no more accurate than the plumber's rule of thumb.


    Off the top of my head, you would need to know:

    The temperature of the water in the radiator (and do you want to account for the temperature drop from the inlet to the outlet?).

    The thermal conductivity of the steel and paint of the radiator.

    The surface area of the radiator.

    The specific heat capacity of the air in the room, including any water vapour in it.

    How well the air is circulated around the room - do you want to do computational fluid dynamics on that?

    The thermal conductivity of the walls, floor, ceiling, windows and doors.

    The temperatures on the other sides of those walls, floor, etc. (not necessarily the same as the outdoor temperature).

    How much cold air leaks in around doors and windows.

    What temperature that air is at.